Kari Voutilainen has followed the tried-and-true path for modern independent makers – learning his craft at the restoration house of Michel Parmigiani after graduating from watchmaking school – before taking on a teaching role at the Watchmakers of Switzerland Training and Educational Program. His next step was to establish himself as an independent watchmaker, something he has managed to do with a degree of success seldom seen in this segment of the market. 
 
First produced in 2011, the Vingt-8, underpinned by its wide palette of customisations, has gone on to become the backbone of the Finnish watchmaker’s catalogue of offerings. This Vingt-8 is one such example, as its typical dark blue and platinum configuration is supplemented by burgundy accents and Roman numerals at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock, respectively. The burgundy accents are found on the Roman numeral 12, the inserts of the Observatoire-style hour and minute hands, as well as the baton-style second hands. This feature is reminiscent of two past Voutilainen watches made for Only Watch - the 2021 "Kind of Magic" collaboration between Voutilainen and De Bethune, which has a similar burgundy accent on the 12 o'clock Arabic numeral, and the 2019 TP1 Pocket Watch, which has an almost identical colour configuration to this Vingt-8, but with bright orange accents throughout instead.
 
The dial features two guilloché patterns. The hour markers, both of the Roman numeral and baton varieties, are applied on a ring of a hobnail pattern. Outside it sits a satiné circulaire chapter of minutes, with plots corresponding to the hour markers as well as the numerals. The centre of the dial wears deep, wave-patterned guilloché, arranged in a roseate. The subsidiary second register also has a hobnail in the centre. Mirroring the layout of the dial, the seconds register features a satiné circulaire chapter of seconds plots.
 
This example features a platinum 39mm case with a three-part case construction. The bezel and midcase wear rounded profiles. The bezel around the display caseback is flatter, with a groove around the well-proportioned crown to make it easier to engage it to set the time. All parts are evenly high-polished.
 
On display is the calibre 28, a movement developed entirely in-house and regulated by the double-wheel escapement, another Voutilainen calling card. It features a free-sprung balance with Breguet overcoil, a Grossmann interior curve, and direct impulse escapement with two large escapement wheels. Not only is it highly engineered, but it is also beautifully hand-finished. The plates are decorated with Côtes de Geneve, with the edges featuring precise anglage. The calibre is multi-layered in its arrangement, giving it visual depth. Screwed-on rose gold plaques on the baseplate bear the brand mark as well as the serial number.

Closer look

Condition

This Voutilainen Vingt-8 is in good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found throughout the bezel and lugs, consistent with relative wear over time and only on the very surface of the material. The guilloché dial, observatoire-style hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.